Back to Arroyo Seco Trail - September 23-25
On the recent Arroyo Seco Trip, several issues involving wedges came up, this, along with the wedge issues encountered on the Vicente Flat trips this summer, prompted me to write my thoughts down, if only to make them clearer to myself.
I think I have now used most of the types of wedges available for bucking[1]: steel, aluminum, plastic and plastic hardhead. They all have their plusses and minuses.
Steel wedges work like a dream, can be pounded into nearly closed kerfs, and work well to stabilize twisting binds, mostly because they are strong enough to be made with very low rise (low angle), especially at the tip. Unfortunately, they are very heavy, and steel felling/bucking wedges are nearly impossible to find. You also must be careful to avoid contact between the wedge and the saw, either on driving the wedge or when the log moves.
Plastic wedges are common and inexpensive, easily available in 5", 8" and larger sizes. I've never used a wedge larger than 8" in my bucking (up to ~3' diameter), more commonly using one to several 5" wedges and occasionally an 8" wedge. The 5" wedges are all made for chainsaw kerfs, and need to be sharpened to fit them in a crosscut kerf. Plastic wedges work better in softer woods and where they aren't acting against large compression forces. Especially in hardwood (or where the log isn't able to move) the smooth plastic doesn't stick in the kerf and the wedge won't drive or slips out when struck, sometimes being ejected violently from the kerf and propelled many feet away (usually into a patch or poison oak or into a ravine).
Plastic wedges are not very durable, succumbing to either bent tips or striking damage to the butts. Hardhead wedges (plastic wedge with a steel plate on the butt) are more durable and drive well, although they are not immune to slip-outs. They are also much heavier than plastic wedges, and require the use of ear protection when driving. There is the possibility of damage to the saw if they fall when the log moves.
Aluminum wedges appear to be a reasonable medium between the weight and capability of steel wedges and the lightness and restrictions of plastic wedges. They are nearly three times as heavy as heavy as a similar plastic wedge (molded to a very similar shape)(11oz vs 4oz), and suffer some of the same durability issues...they can be bent and the butts will mushroom. However, they will drive into a narrow/tight kerf and not be ejected or drive poorly.[2] The 5" wedges I've found are suitable for crosscut kerfs as manufactured. I'm not about to stop carrying plastic wedges, since they are perfectly workable in most situations, but an aluminum wedge or two will be a indispensable part of my crosscut kit from now on.[3] I'd love to hear your comments and experiences on this subject.
[1] The steel wedges were years ago. All used for eastern hardwood felling (with a bowsaw).
[2] In particular, a ~2' diameter dry hard oak was spitting plastic wedges...either you couldn't even seat them, or they would bounce or fly out when being driven. The 5" aluminum wedge drove and held well.
[3] Suitable for a 2 person crew: